Month: November 2025
This study is provided by Surf Science Institute of Earth, our partner in research, exploration, and excessive data. We would love to experiment on you as well. Every surfer knows the difference between an empty lineup and a packed one. Yet few realize just how much crowd density impacts performance—not just psychologically, but biomechanically and […]
Some guys are born funny. I’m not that guy. Some guys are born handsome, again, not that guy. But there are a few of us who were born to drop in on great set waves and always, without fail, find a way to really pooch it and come across as a real clown. I am […]
At first I didn’t understand the surf culture, but after years in Oahu I started to get it. There’s a beauty and power and an elegance and, dare I say it, a raw sexual sense of accomplishment to it. Then some prick comes along and puts a canned crappy soundtrack over it and the whole […]
The thing that the old surf movies always failed to catch was how hard it was to shoot the 14-minute talk talk talk talk won’t this guy ever stop talking intro with a 30-pound camera rig. –-Koa Kamelian, Surfing Legend Here are some of Koa’s favorite clips…
I once watched a surfer stand on the high line of a wave, the very peak, like he was a snail walking on the edge of a razor. There was something about that in Apocalypse Now. Whoever wrote that line in that film might have been that surfer. Huh? No thanks man, pass, definitely high […]
Subject: Official Brain & Happiness Prescription for Limpy Hi Mrs. McGeezer, After an extensive consultation with the world-renowned AI specialist in brain science, thrill optimization, and general surf awesomeness (aka ChatGPT), it has been medically determined that Limpy’s surfing habit is not just recreational — it’s essential. Prescription Highlights: Surf hard and often: Boosts BDNF, […]
Well the reception’s not even until 3, it’s 1:30 now, I’ve got heaps of time. –-Luke Cederman, Surfing Legend Here are maybe some of Luke’s favorite clips…
The brain of a surfer is conditioned by a lot of unusual things. Harsh impact, corrosion from salt, corrosion from some plants and some ethanol products. But it is that daily exposure to a lot of guys who gave up trying in school on their second day of school that really sets them up for […]
Australian people have a different way of looking at the ocean. They see it from a different angle, a different time zone, and a different continent. To them, the ocean often has a different name that what you know it as. Its tides come a different times. Some of the fish are different. Some of […]
This study is provided by Surf Science Institute of Earth, our partner in research, exploration, and excessive data. We would love to experiment on you as well. Surfers love to pretend we’re data-driven. We throw around words like “fetch,” “interval,” and “buoy readings” like we’re all moonlighting at NASA — when really, we’re just hoping […]