Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. “To be truly free one must fly their own flag.” -Limpy McGeezer from The Ghosts of Surfing… Isla de Muerta only appears at low tide, which tells you everything you need to know about the lineup right […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. Limpy McGeezer, 5,000 Runs Down The Beach, The chapter about snakes and birds and uncharacteristically choosing to do the right thing… Most mornings I spot my neighbor Dave doing the same thing every aging surf-rat does: staring […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. There is literally no way to describe how to travel here. Maybe you’ll get lucky and just end up on this wave… Second Star Bay doesn’t look real at first glance. The water has that luminous blue-green […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. Frank Miller’s art left an impression on a generation, perhaps one as deep as these experiments left on an island’s population… Nobody tells you what the surf community is like on the Island of Dr. Moreau. People […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. Near the Arctic Circle, just after the second of the three Reindeer Mutation Events… The Island of Misfit Toys isn’t some cozy Christmas special when you actually paddle into it. The wind slices sideways like sharpened tinsel, […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. Being planewrecked on an island would have its moments… some well- written, some not… I didn’t notice how unnervingly clear the water had become until I was already knee-deep in it. Not tropical clear — transparent. Like […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. This was a stealth mission by Stab to surf a new break spotted on satellite near an ordinary East China Sea industrial island. The wave always looked good, even when most of the region was flat. Someone […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. Still deserted, still isolated, and still impossible to escape… The SS Minnow is still there, by the way—tilted, sand-choked, and sunburned to the point where it looks like driftwood wearing a boat costume. The huts are empty, […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. Years after the radioactive catastrophe caused by Dr. No, the first people to risk a return to the island were, predictably, people who didn’t bother with high school or science class… Crab Key isn’t quiet anymore. Dr. […]
Reprinted with permission of LeCarta.com, a map and surf story project developed by Surf Science Institute of Earth. We followed the curling spine of the islands, guided by stars that remembered us even when men forget their own names. The sea was calm that morning — too calm, like a chief smiling before judgment. Then […]